All of the Uganda study abroad alumni told us that time would fly by here, and they were right. These past nine weeks have been so much fun, and we've all learned so much. As our program comes to a close, it only seems appropriate that I recount some of my favorite moments from our study abroad experience.
I think it was the second week that we were here in Uganda and our group was still getting to know each other when we decided to order four large pizzas and a red velvet cake from a restaurant called I Love New York Kitchen. It took a very long time to track down the phone number on-line, and even then we didn't have a menu. In the end, the wait was worth it, though. I remember all of us sitting in the flat eating, laughing, talking, really just getting to know each other. This past weekend we ordered pizza from I Love New York Kitchen again, and it made me smile to see all of us back together, eating, laughing, talking - just like that first time.
I remember when we visited Mulago Bright Standard Primary School, and after the children had performed for us, Centurio chose three people to give speeches. The last student to speak simply said "Mwebale" (thank you in Luganda), and the entire place burst into applause.
And the sad tale of the rooster at Busabi. This rooster at the hotel where we were staying woke all of us up very early in the morning and then wouldn't let us get back to sleep with its incessant crowing. The next day Centurio joked with the hotel staff that we would like them to cook that rooster for dinner. But it wasn't a joke when the rooster wasn't there when we got back and we had chicken for dinner. Sure enough we had eaten the rooster. The hotel staff claimed that that was always the rooster's fate, but we still felt guilty. We did sleep better that night, though.
When I was trying to accompany the Butabika staff on an outreach event, Centurio accompanied me on the mutatu rides across Kampala. When we finally got to Ntinda, where I was to be picked up, I remember being so relieved that I gave Centurio a hug. It was in that moment that I truly realized how dedicated and kind Centurio is that he would take hours out of his day to take public transportation with me.
Ah, the frustration that came with trying to learn a Buganda dance. My hips do not move that way, but I tried.
In the first week, Dan told us at breakfast about the tiny antelope called oribe that we would see at Murchison Falls. This was my first experience with Dan's great story-telling skills.
In Zanzibar, I learned that I am not very good at bargaining. Me: "I will give you ten thousand shillings for these sandals." Salesperson: "Oh no. Fourteen." Me: "Okay." I still have not really improved upon this.
Seeing the Rakai Community Cohort Study was just really amazing. It's difficult to describe how fantastic it was to see such a large research project operating in conjunction with health service provision in rural Uganda.
This last week one of the students in our group organized a cookout with a refugee population that he had been working with. It was a powerful gathering, and I was so impressed that one of the students in our group had organized it and even more impressed that this refugee population remained so strong in the face of adversity.
There are so many more stories and experiences, but these were a few that first popped into my mind. I've truly had a wonderful time here in Uganda. I have made so many friends and experienced so much. I will never forget the time that I have spent here.
Location: Kampala, Busabi, Zanzibar, Rakai, all over Uganda
Showing posts with label zanzibar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label zanzibar. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Week 5- Cool as a Banana in a Fridge
Location: Makerere University, Kampala, Uganda
The notion of privacy and consent is so different wherever you go. Back in the states, privacy is strict. You have the right to whatever information you want to share and provide to others. Any sense of your invasion of privacy, there is always administration available to talk to or help you through it. If you ever wanted a chance to witness a personal incident, such as a surgery, you wouldn’t just have to ask the consent of the patient, but there would be forms from the hospital you would have to fill out and credentials you must have. Our trip to Rakai and the vacation to Zanzibar were a perfect example showing how even in a more educated and modern project in Uganda, their sense of privacy is completely different.
The educational tour and classes at the Rakai Health Sciences Program (RHSP) was probably one of the most eye-opening experiences anyone could have. We first got a chance to tour the workplace, and even the research lab, that would usually be off-limit in the states. The most privacy invasive experience was when we were offered a chance to watch a circumcision taking place. All this occasion required was the consent from the patient (one patient didn’t wasn’t even asked for his consent; it was automatically assumed he would say yes, since all the other patients did). We were allowed to walk in, wearing extra coverings over our head, body, and shoes, and stand next to the musawos (doctors) and patient through the whole surgery. Not only that, but pictures were also allowed. Needless to say, this would never be allowed in the US. RHSP is an institution that is highly regarded as one of the best research centers in the country, let alone Africa. The education level of all health workers there are high and the facilities are top notch. The institution serves only as a workplace, as most workers there go home on weekends to see their family and friends. I assumed, while being there, that the ideas and customs held at Rakai would be much more similar to the United States, rather than Uganda. It was very surprising that their culture and customs resided still strongly. Their sense of privacy as a nation is much less relevant. This experience puts ideas into perspective and provides a better international mindset.
The Rakai circumcision situation was a very evident difference in privacy. A more common occurrence would just be cultural customs walking down the street. I witnessed this while in Kampala, but even more strongly so in my trip to Zanzibar. The culture here provides that there is no personal space. You can walk down the street and someone can grab onto your arm very tightly and not let go until you have reached your destination. There have been occasions where I shake someone’s end, but eventually we end up holding hands for the next 30 minutes (I love holding hands, but come on, 30 minutes? And we’re not even in a relationship). This was especially evident in Zanzibar. April is low season for vacationing, so we were part of the few tourists there. As you walk down any street, there will be people following you and grabbing at you to ask to come into their store “just to take a look”. There have been multiple occasions where I ask people to seriously stop following me, I don’t want your ganja, and I know how to find my own way, but they don’t seem to grasp the complete meaning of “stop”. In the states, this could be considered harassment. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed the vacation to Zanzibar! Hakunana Matata and everything is as cool as a banana in a fridge.
Privacy is something that will always be a concern at the back of my mind through the many activities carried out here. Learning the culture and customs is important as to not offend them, and keeping their privacy in mind is very important, even though it may seem they are more open here. Consent, even for just taking pictures as a tourist, is important to obtain before performing any of the activities. I hope to keep this trip as an open-minded and learning experience.
The notion of privacy and consent is so different wherever you go. Back in the states, privacy is strict. You have the right to whatever information you want to share and provide to others. Any sense of your invasion of privacy, there is always administration available to talk to or help you through it. If you ever wanted a chance to witness a personal incident, such as a surgery, you wouldn’t just have to ask the consent of the patient, but there would be forms from the hospital you would have to fill out and credentials you must have. Our trip to Rakai and the vacation to Zanzibar were a perfect example showing how even in a more educated and modern project in Uganda, their sense of privacy is completely different.
The educational tour and classes at the Rakai Health Sciences Program (RHSP) was probably one of the most eye-opening experiences anyone could have. We first got a chance to tour the workplace, and even the research lab, that would usually be off-limit in the states. The most privacy invasive experience was when we were offered a chance to watch a circumcision taking place. All this occasion required was the consent from the patient (one patient didn’t wasn’t even asked for his consent; it was automatically assumed he would say yes, since all the other patients did). We were allowed to walk in, wearing extra coverings over our head, body, and shoes, and stand next to the musawos (doctors) and patient through the whole surgery. Not only that, but pictures were also allowed. Needless to say, this would never be allowed in the US. RHSP is an institution that is highly regarded as one of the best research centers in the country, let alone Africa. The education level of all health workers there are high and the facilities are top notch. The institution serves only as a workplace, as most workers there go home on weekends to see their family and friends. I assumed, while being there, that the ideas and customs held at Rakai would be much more similar to the United States, rather than Uganda. It was very surprising that their culture and customs resided still strongly. Their sense of privacy as a nation is much less relevant. This experience puts ideas into perspective and provides a better international mindset.
The Rakai circumcision situation was a very evident difference in privacy. A more common occurrence would just be cultural customs walking down the street. I witnessed this while in Kampala, but even more strongly so in my trip to Zanzibar. The culture here provides that there is no personal space. You can walk down the street and someone can grab onto your arm very tightly and not let go until you have reached your destination. There have been occasions where I shake someone’s end, but eventually we end up holding hands for the next 30 minutes (I love holding hands, but come on, 30 minutes? And we’re not even in a relationship). This was especially evident in Zanzibar. April is low season for vacationing, so we were part of the few tourists there. As you walk down any street, there will be people following you and grabbing at you to ask to come into their store “just to take a look”. There have been multiple occasions where I ask people to seriously stop following me, I don’t want your ganja, and I know how to find my own way, but they don’t seem to grasp the complete meaning of “stop”. In the states, this could be considered harassment. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed the vacation to Zanzibar! Hakunana Matata and everything is as cool as a banana in a fridge.
Privacy is something that will always be a concern at the back of my mind through the many activities carried out here. Learning the culture and customs is important as to not offend them, and keeping their privacy in mind is very important, even though it may seem they are more open here. Consent, even for just taking pictures as a tourist, is important to obtain before performing any of the activities. I hope to keep this trip as an open-minded and learning experience.
Week 5- Cool like a Chicken in a Salty Egg
Five of us took a mini-vacation to Zanzibar island in Tanzania. Zanzibar is an archipelago off the coast of Tanzania that is a popular tourist site due to its rich history, beautiful architecture, and abundance of beaches. We enjoyed 5 days of "touristy activities" from snorkeling to a spice tour.
It was a really interesting cultural experience leaving Uganda and coming to Tanzania. We've traveled all over Uganda, east to west but this was our first experience to another African country. Taking a break in Zanzibar was great but I have to admit that I missed the people and culture of Kampala. Several people that we've met in Uganda have stated that Ugandans are generally friendly. I have to agree. Almost everyone we have interacted with has been really friendly towards us.
Yet, in Zanzibar, people were really agressive and seemingly out to get us. Street vendors tried to charge us more than double the price, got angry when we didn't go into their stores, and followed us down the street hassling us to buy their products. Don't misunderstand me; I had a great time but I missed the polite, respectful culture of Kampala. In Zanzibar, we were revenue sources; we were one of the few tourists that come during the slow season so we were prime targets for all the shop owners, taxi drivers, and various vendors that depend on tourism to make a living. While see some similar things in Kampala- being charged the "mzungu price" and being asked for money from children- we're always respected when we negotiate prices or say no.
It's hard to know whether these differences are cultural or simply due to the differing economies. Either way, it made me realize how much I've connected with the people in Kampala. Landing in Entebbe felt like arriving home after a long journey away. Taking the hour long drive back to Makerere somehow seemed quick and enjoyable despite the jams and bumpy roads. As a taxi driver said to us in Zanzibar, it was "cool like a chicken in a salty egg." We have no idea what that means but it seems fitting somehow.
Location: Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Yet, in Zanzibar, people were really agressive and seemingly out to get us. Street vendors tried to charge us more than double the price, got angry when we didn't go into their stores, and followed us down the street hassling us to buy their products. Don't misunderstand me; I had a great time but I missed the polite, respectful culture of Kampala. In Zanzibar, we were revenue sources; we were one of the few tourists that come during the slow season so we were prime targets for all the shop owners, taxi drivers, and various vendors that depend on tourism to make a living. While see some similar things in Kampala- being charged the "mzungu price" and being asked for money from children- we're always respected when we negotiate prices or say no.
It's hard to know whether these differences are cultural or simply due to the differing economies. Either way, it made me realize how much I've connected with the people in Kampala. Landing in Entebbe felt like arriving home after a long journey away. Taking the hour long drive back to Makerere somehow seemed quick and enjoyable despite the jams and bumpy roads. As a taxi driver said to us in Zanzibar, it was "cool like a chicken in a salty egg." We have no idea what that means but it seems fitting somehow.
Location: Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Week 5 - Zanzibar Lesson 1: Avoid Spray Sunscreen.
Location: Kampala
During our two week hiatus from class, between our trips to Rakai and Ssese Island, a few of us opted to do some independent traveling. We decided on Zanzibar mostly for its tropical allure and touristy reputation and were certainly not disappointed. Aside from the breathtaking beaches and scrumptious dining, Zanzibar offered a unique cultural perspective as well. As a famous historical trading hub, the island had a fascinating mix of Indian, Arab, and African traditions all interwoven into one people.
One of my most memorable experiences was taking a cooking class from a local family, preparing the following: pilau, fish curry, sweet potato and coconut and papaya and coconut. Our hotel arranged a number of touristy excursions and this was the first on our list. We were escorted about twenty minutes outside of Stone Town and invited into a traditional home with a large family. From there we were asked to select four menu items from a list of twenty and then proceeded to cook under the supervision of some of the family members. My favorite activity that night was coconut-scraping. In fact, there is actually a special chair that serves a dual purpose -- sitting and coconut-scraping. From the middle of the chair, there is a large, rough, rounded blade that is used to scrape the coconut flakes from the shell. There is even a technique that ensures efficient coconut scraping. We tremendously enjoyed the lessons as well as the company, but probably most of all the meal we prepared with the family.
Another exciting episode from the trip was snorkeling off the coast of Prison Island. However, the most enjoyable part was not the snorkeling itself, but the transport to the island. We took a privately hired boat, but were permitted to stand on the front of it -- not inside (something what would certainly have been deemed a liability and therefore prohibited in the United States). Though the experience was exhilarating, the memory is embedded twofold. One, of course, is the traditional memory, and the other I embarrassingly wear on my back and shoulders. It seems that while applying spray-on sunscreen, I managed to avoid several areas that resulted in an awkward patchy sunburn resembling arbitrary land-masses on a geographical map. Suggestion: stick with lotion sunscreen, it may be slower, but at least it's much more accurate.
Despite the glamour and charm of Zanzibar, I oddly found myself feeling homesick--though not for America, but for Kampala. This resonating nostalgia of Kampala as home has made me realize how important and moving this study abroad trip has been. To find myself longing for a country I had spent less than a month in makes a powerful statement about Uganda and its people.
During our two week hiatus from class, between our trips to Rakai and Ssese Island, a few of us opted to do some independent traveling. We decided on Zanzibar mostly for its tropical allure and touristy reputation and were certainly not disappointed. Aside from the breathtaking beaches and scrumptious dining, Zanzibar offered a unique cultural perspective as well. As a famous historical trading hub, the island had a fascinating mix of Indian, Arab, and African traditions all interwoven into one people.
One of my most memorable experiences was taking a cooking class from a local family, preparing the following: pilau, fish curry, sweet potato and coconut and papaya and coconut. Our hotel arranged a number of touristy excursions and this was the first on our list. We were escorted about twenty minutes outside of Stone Town and invited into a traditional home with a large family. From there we were asked to select four menu items from a list of twenty and then proceeded to cook under the supervision of some of the family members. My favorite activity that night was coconut-scraping. In fact, there is actually a special chair that serves a dual purpose -- sitting and coconut-scraping. From the middle of the chair, there is a large, rough, rounded blade that is used to scrape the coconut flakes from the shell. There is even a technique that ensures efficient coconut scraping. We tremendously enjoyed the lessons as well as the company, but probably most of all the meal we prepared with the family.
Another exciting episode from the trip was snorkeling off the coast of Prison Island. However, the most enjoyable part was not the snorkeling itself, but the transport to the island. We took a privately hired boat, but were permitted to stand on the front of it -- not inside (something what would certainly have been deemed a liability and therefore prohibited in the United States). Though the experience was exhilarating, the memory is embedded twofold. One, of course, is the traditional memory, and the other I embarrassingly wear on my back and shoulders. It seems that while applying spray-on sunscreen, I managed to avoid several areas that resulted in an awkward patchy sunburn resembling arbitrary land-masses on a geographical map. Suggestion: stick with lotion sunscreen, it may be slower, but at least it's much more accurate.
Despite the glamour and charm of Zanzibar, I oddly found myself feeling homesick--though not for America, but for Kampala. This resonating nostalgia of Kampala as home has made me realize how important and moving this study abroad trip has been. To find myself longing for a country I had spent less than a month in makes a powerful statement about Uganda and its people.
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